Friday, 11 November 2016

Cardigan revisit - 16-17th October, 2016


Well it's been a while since our last coast re-visit it seems. Although we did rather a large re-visit to Ynys Môn earlier in the year...click here to catch up..

This re-visit actually turned out not quite as originally planned. We had hoped to have a Sassy roadtrip this time around but sadly the weather didn't behave as it was supposed to so we reverted having booked the hotel and just went in a boring old car! It was in the end the correct thing to have done, it was a very wet ride both ways and a very showery couple of days so driving with the hood down would have been a bit damp!

We had decided to go back to Cardigan because we wanted to walk the coast at Cardigan Island which had always been not allowed due to the owner of the Farm Park there - unless of course you were a visitor to the park. However for a short time, the coastal path did come to a suitable agreement and was open here but it didn't seem to last long as we discovered shortly before we set off that the coastal path has closed again within the farm park area. However on the plus side it still is open along the fields on each side so we would be able to walk to Mwnt close to the coast and not on the road as we had to last time.

The first day we drove straight to Ceibwr Bay as we really wanted to go back to Pwll-y-wrach just down the coast there which we had been so impressed with on the Coastal Path Walk - and we weren't disappointed. Last time we were here it was coming towards the end of the day so I was really hoping to get better pictures today - did I succeed...?


Cemaes Head just south of Cardigan just never ceases to be amazing....


and the noise of the waves beating through the caves around here was just as phenomenal as ever. We saw a young seal in the shingle


and as we walked back also it's parent watching just out at sea.
To the south we could see Dinas Head and beyond to the Carns of St David's Head and the light of Strumble Head lighthouse flashing though I couldn't quite catch the flash this time!

One of the wonderful things of the revisits is that we have more time to have a little time to spend rambling over the rocks and just watching for longer so on the walk back to the car, we had a scramble on the rocks.
Wonderful!


Before we went to the hotel we went in search of Vortigern's "grave" at Nevern church - there certainly is a commemorative stone there. And another ancient Celtic cross there is awesome. And then we visited the cromlech near Newport, Carreg Coetan, Arthurs stone!
Never knowingly miss a visit to ancient sites!
 And then we returned to the Cliff Hotel at Gwbert which we know is one of the few hotels with sea views surprisingly. It has been updated and is currently undergoing more refurbishment - maybe a bit too contemporary....still we could see Poppit Sands from our room.

And then on the following day it was the Cardigan Island day! Leaving the hotel there on the edge of the blue sea...
....we had been thinking that it would be on the disappointing side still but in fact it was fantastic! After walking up the road for a short way, we soon turned to cross fields, many toadflax still flowering here..
 and really got our first full views of Cardigan Island.
In fact the nearer we got, the more we thought the cliffs close to the island are really not that huge.
Once down to the coast, we just stayed there all the way to Mwnt! Beautiful. On the way out there are old quarries to pass - nicely lit in the sunshine, and the rainbows were beautiful!
Showers aren't all bad news..........
Mwnt just looks so impressive on approach:
- and with the waves bouncing off the rocks, the sights and sound made for a wonderful walk.
Just before we got to Mwnt, the heavens really did open - complete with quite painful hailstones! Not to worry, we soon seemed to dry out and before long we were at Mwnt ......
we could see as far as Aberporth and even to the stunning Ynys Lochtyn and as far as Cei Newedd beyond....and then we turned to head back. Another strange feeling on the revisits - turning to go back didn't used to be the way to go! We could see the little church at Mwnt peeping over the cliffs......
.those cliffs which make Mwnt the spectacular peninsula that it is.

The return walk was just as pretty though and the sea was quieter now with the tide going out and no storm blowing in!
We got back to the Cliff Hotel after about a 6 mile walk - a lovely revisit!
It will be back to Glyndŵr's Way very soon now.......not sure when the next coast revisit will be but already looking forward to it!

Monday, 4 January 2016

Porthcawl to Margam Sands - 31st December, 2015

Well, it's been a while since we managed a return to the coast visit so we were really looking forward to this! Having decided that we would like to do something different for New Year this time, we went through several coastal hotels we knew and which weren't too far from home and some of them were booked up but the the Aberavon Beach Hotel at Port Talbot had a suite available AND a Gala Dinner Dance!
So off we set on Thursday morning. It has been a warm but excessively wet December with the North and especially Cumbria and York bearing the brunt of flooding. So much more terrible at this time of year.
It was dry on the way - whoopppee! There was even some snow, or frost at least, on Pen-y-Fan as we passed..

We headed down to Porthcawl as our walk was going to be from Rest Bay at Porthcawl and then along Margam Sands alongside the Kenfig Burrows. The Wales Coast Path has changed a little here since we walked it about almost 2 and a half years ago. How can it be so long ago?  The change means that in dry weather at least, you can walk further along Margam Sands and up through the Margam marshes rather than cutting up through the very substantial Kenfig dunes and road walking into Port Talbot.
It was around midday as we set off once more beside the sea! The sun shone brightly - for a while! - giving beautiful colours on the sea.
 There were surfers making the most of the big waves...
 We could even see breakers on the horizon, it was quite breezy today but wonderful to be walking by the sea again.
 And the waves were crashing onto the rocks....the tide was actually supposed to be well on the way out but normal tides don't prevail in winter.
 Across to the east, we could see the Glamorgan coast....
 ....and of course we were never far from a golf course...the path here goes alongside the Royal Porthcawl golf club. The big old building near the golf club which had been the Rest Hotel and in its latest form had been a convalescent hotel has closed since we were here last. It's now for sale for development into apartments so hope it succeeds. It always seems sad to see great old buildings like that now redundant.
Off we went along the very impressive plastic path along the sea here. It was actually quite busy with several other groups of people walking for a while. Up in front we could now make out the steel works and along to the Gower from Swansea! all very nostalgic for us! We had walked to Mumbles with our much smaller boys!
 And now we approached Sker House a little inland. This is now a privately owned house with a long history having started life as a Cistercian monastic building some 900 years ago. The medieval tower is still clear to see but it was in ruins for quite some time.
The light on the sea was wonderful and the waves just swept up onto the rocks still.
 As we were approaching the dunes, there was a herd of cattle on the beach! I think they were Galloways. Have often seen traces of cows on a beach but here they were happily grazing on the rocks.
 As we headed over the smaller dunes, there ahead was Port Talbot - and beyond....
 ...and Kenfig dunes landward. The port cranes and the steelworks chimneys were clear to see. As were the black clouds that now came rolling in....
We had hoped to walk along Margam sands as far as we could ....we did set off along the beach, and here there was, once again, evidence of an earlier time - a forest floor?
 So we turned into the dunes to gain more shelter from the wind and hail which soon bounced down on us! We had in fact only walked as far as where we had last time turned into the dunes. Have to say I was kind of glad we didn't have to walk all the way into Port Talbot - last time it had been a very long walk helped only by the generosity of the Port Talbot people.
Near Sker House on the return, I remembered I hadn't photographed the Path sign! Here it is....
 My back was to the sea there and it was almost blowing me over! It was just to wet to get a picture of Chris wet through. He was having the last laugh though as he had put on his waterproof trousers - I hadn;t and was regretting it! A wetsuit might have been better - and still there were golfers on the golf course as we got back to Rest Bay! We had managed about a 6 mile walk and were much heavier when we got back to the car. Luckily the cafe at Rest Bay was open - a coffee was the order of the day!
Here was the view from the car as we drove past the steel works.....
 Bu then we enjoyed a real good party for New Year with the very friendly people of Port Talbot!
 Next day we had intended retracing our steps again to walk along Aberavon Sands to Baglan Bay.....but the weather was not much improved on the day before so we contented ourselves with a last look at the sea  and a stroll along the prom..
...before taking our leave of another lovely re-visit, in anticipation of the next one.....